CHEATSHEET
How To Manage Redness + Choose Products Wisely
I firmly believe that redness and rosacea is all about your daily habits. One of the biggest triggers for redness is using the wrong skincare - something I imagine every rosacea sufferer knows. But when you get it right, it has a powerfully calming effect, reducing flares and their severity. Here are the ingredients that I feel form the cornerstone of a winning redness skincare routine.
IS MINERAL SUNSCREEN BEST FOR ROSACEA?
Here I’m referring to kind-but-mighty zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, the ultimate sunscreen filters when it comes to pernickety skin. They also have a light-reflecting quality which can help dial down redness, especially if also tinted. I’m a huge fan for both patients and personally.
I like Flawless Gossamer Tint 1 or Untinted or Clinique Mineral Sunscreen SPF50.
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IS AZELAIC ACID GOOD FOR TREATING ROSACEA?
Yes! It’s brilliant for redness and rosacea-prone skin. It reduces the activity mediated by toll-like receptors, which sense our environment for danger, helping activate our skin’s defenses. In redness-prone skin these sensors are turned up too high and Azelaic Acid helps bring them back under control.
It’s such a versatile ingredient - find it in Flawless Brightly Serum, which contains 10% azelaic acid.
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WHAT ABOUT IVERMECTIN FOR ROSACEA?
This prescription cream (also known as Soolantra) has become my go-to for active flare-ups of the papulopustular variety. It’s very soothing and has a pleasant skin feel - this delivers reassuringly effective results, giving peace of mind. I tend to use it in bursts - once the flare-up has settled, I’ll transition onto something different for maintenance.
IS NIACINAMIDE USEFUL IN REDNESS?
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This widely-available skin-loving vitamin serves 2 key roles in redness - it’s anti-inflammatory and it boosts barrier function, helping tackle 2 of the key issues why redness occurs. It’s been a real star in those whose tendency to rosacea has been exacerbated by wearing a face-mask. We hear lots about mask-ne, but “rosacea-ne” is a real thing too.
WHAT ROLE DO RETINOIDS PLAY IN ROSACEA?
In rosacea that’s coasting along in the maintenance phase, a retinoid can be a really helpful addition. Given the preponderance in fair-skinned, light eyed individuals, this is a group at risk of sun damage and the associated damage to collagen that ensues. So the value of a retinoid in helping rebuild the dermal matrix is potentially huge. It may also help reduce abnormal vessel formation too. As always, proceed carefully - consider a trial of a non-prescription retinoid to test the waters. Granactive Retinoid is a great one to try.
Find that in Flawless Nightly Serum. If that goes to plan, you can always dip your toe in the prescription space and try Differin (or adapalene).
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FINAL THOUGHTS
It’s vital to have a long-term view on this as a rosy complexion and rosacea tends to hang around - but you can absolutely influence problem progression when you put the right skincare foundations in early so it’s worth doing the work.
