CHEATSHEET
How To Manage Redness + Choose Products Wisely
I firmly believe that redness and rosacea is all about your daily habits. One of the biggest triggers for redness is using the wrong skincare - something I imagine every rosacea sufferer knows. But when you get it right, it has a powerfully calming effect, reducing flares and their severity. Here are the ingredients that I feel form the cornerstone of a winning redness skincare routine.
IS MINERAL SUNSCREEN BEST FOR ROSACEA?
Here I’m referring to kind-but-mighty zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, the ultimate sunscreen filters when it comes to pernickety skin. They also have a light-reflecting quality which can help dial down redness, especially if also tinted. I’m a huge fan for both patients and personally.
I like Flawless Gossamer Tint 1 or Untinted or Clinique Mineral Sunscreen SPF50.
IS AZELAIC ACID GOOD FOR TREATING ROSACEA?
Yes! It’s brilliant for redness and rosacea-prone skin. It reduces the activity mediated by toll-like receptors, which sense our environment for danger, helping activate our skin’s defenses. In redness-prone skin these sensors are turned up too high and Azelaic Acid helps bring them back under control.
It’s such a versatile ingredient - find it in Flawless Brightly Serum, which contains 10% azelaic acid.
WHAT ABOUT IVERMECTIN FOR ROSACEA?
This prescription cream (also known as Soolantra) has become my go-to for active flare-ups of the papulopustular variety. It’s very soothing and has a pleasant skin feel - this delivers reassuringly effective results, giving peace of mind. I tend to use it in bursts - once the flare-up has settled, I’ll transition onto something different for maintenance.
IS NIACINAMIDE USEFUL IN REDNESS?
This widely-available skin-loving vitamin serves 2 key roles in redness - it’s anti-inflammatory and it boosts barrier function, helping tackle 2 of the key issues why redness occurs. It’s been a real star in those whose tendency to rosacea has been exacerbated by wearing a face-mask. We hear lots about mask-ne, but “rosacea-ne” is a real thing too.
WHAT ROLE DO RETINOIDS PLAY IN ROSACEA?
In rosacea that’s coasting along in the maintenance phase, a retinoid can be a really helpful addition. Given the preponderance in fair-skinned, light eyed individuals, this is a group at risk of sun damage and the associated damage to collagen that ensues. So the value of a retinoid in helping rebuild the dermal matrix is potentially huge. It may also help reduce abnormal vessel formation too. As always, proceed carefully - consider a trial of a non-prescription retinoid to test the waters. Granactive Retinoid is a great one to try.
Find that in Flawless Nightly Serum. If that goes to plan, you can always dip your toe in the prescription space and try Differin (or adapalene).
FINAL THOUGHTS
It’s vital to have a long-term view on this as a rosy complexion and rosacea tends to hang around - but you can absolutely influence problem progression when you put the right skincare foundations in early so it’s worth doing the work.