How far along you are will be determined by how tolerant or not your skin is. Think about it- you’ll make progress quicker if your skin is very easygoing + oily (so you can escalate your application frequency and quantity more frequently) than if you’re dry and sensitive. It’s all ok, it just means managing your expectations. And it may mean you face challenges at different times.
The good news is that if you’re established on a routine and you’ve been consistent that towards the end of your first skin cycle you’ll start to see some benefits:
- Fewer new spots
- Blemishes of shorter duration
- Better skin quality overall
On the other hand, you may well be facing some challenges. The commonest ones I see are:
Purging
Purging is very common - as many as 25% will experience some degree of purging. If you think about it, that makes sense. You’re pushing out clogged up pores in a speeded-up fashion under the influence of your Preventor, so they may appear over a shorter period of time. This is particularly common in those with lots of comedones at the beginning so this pattern of acne can often look a lot worse before it’s better. Don’t fret, purging should gradually improve over the following weeks. If it’s too much, reduce the frequency of your Preventor to make things a little less intense. However, if your symptoms are more consistent with irritation, discontinue use.
Irritancy
Rather than fearing irritation, think of it as your skin's way of telling you it needs a gentler approach. Everyone's skin has a different tolerance, so finding the right pace is key to getting the best from your actives over the long term.
The areas most likely to become irritated are around your eyes and mouth - we talk, eat and kiss (!) all day long, so these areas are constantly on the move, and the skin here is naturally thinner. Be prepared to buffer these areas, reduce the frequency of application or even dilute your retinoid to lessen the intensity. Introducing actives one at a time and being genuinely patient will also help your skin adapt more comfortably.
If you notice mild dryness, tightness or flaking, reduce the frequency of use and allow your skin time to settle before gradually increasing use again. However, if you're experiencing persistent burning, significant redness, itching, swelling, a rash or worsening discomfort, discontinue use, as these symptoms are more suggestive of irritation than your skin simply adjusting.
Slow Response
So, if you’ve had to respond to either of these two hurdles, you might well be experiencing a dip in morale due to a slower-than-expected response. This is where it's important to keep your expectations realistic. Improving acne takes time, and consistency is key. Remember those key metrics for improvement - 30% improvement at 3 months and 60% at 6 months - and measure your progress objectively. It’s so easy to see flat red marks and think they represent active acne, when in fact they’re simply the marker of what’s gone before.
The Bottom Line
Trust the process! You’re building a valuable habit that will not only treat new spots but prevent new ones. Like any new habit, building a consistent skincare routine takes time. Think about going to the gym-making exercise feel second nature doesn't happen overnight. There may be days when progress feels slow or your skin is simply taking time to adjust, but consistency and patience are what deliver long-term results.
Listen to your skin as you go. Mild, temporary dryness or a small increase in blemishes can be part of the adjustment process, but if you're experiencing persistent burning, significant redness, itching, swelling, a rash or worsening discomfort, discontinue use and allow your skin to recover before reintroducing active ingredients.
I'll be with you as you move forward, so commit the time and effort to this worthwhile journey. A Grown-Up Glow is closer than you think.
Dr Sam xo
